How To Stain a Table with General Finishes Water Based Stain | Furniture Makeover

How To Stain a Table with General Finishes Water Based Stain | Furniture Makeover

hi everybody its Christina from pretty
distressed welcome back to my channel today’s video is gonna be all about
making over this solid oak game table from the 1980s we’re just gonna be
giving a refresh with some paint and some stain so if you want to see how I
got this look just keep watching so I’m coming to you from my client slash
friend’s basement where I’m gonna be making over this game table today this
has been in her family for a while and her parents were downsizing asked her
she wanted it and so it’s been in her basement for a while but the way that
it’s finished just doesn’t really go with her two core down here so we are
updating it today with a little bit of paint and stain I’m gonna be using Jolie
Paint in Gesso White which is a awesome white that’s not really a warm white
it’s not really a cool white it’s like a very neutral color that goes with a lot
of things and with the top I’m going to be sanding that down and staining it
with a General Finishes a water-based stain called greystone which is a new
color which is totally amazing I can’t wait to show it to you guys and then I’m
gonna be top coating it with their high performance flat top coat which is one
of my favorites so let’s go ahead and I’ll zoom it in
and we’ll get started okay number one this is going to be a
long video so buckle in but there’s gonna be lots of great info so you can
tackle a project like this by yourself number two I know what you’re thinking I
don’t have a game table the odds that you guys have in a game table are pretty
slim I think but all these techniques can be used on a kitchen table or a
dining table so don’t check out on me the only difference is I’m able to work
on this top independently from the table I’m gonna be stripping down this finish
today so I have my eye protection my respirator fitted with my particle
filters some ear protection and I’m gonna be using my Dewalt
orbit sander and for stripping off this finish I’m using a 60 grit pad you could
use a 60 or a 80 you just want to make sure that it’s coarse and I’m going back
and forth with the grain of the wood and as you can see here that just means
following those lines that run back and forth side to
just following the grain so I am just stripping off all this existing finish
so that we can put a new stain with more of a modern tone to it to get rid of
this orange and yellow so I am just going to use this coarse grit sandpaper
across this entire piece until I remove all that existing varnish the best way
to use this sander for a beginner is not put any weight on top of it and don’t
push down with pressure you just want to stay in the same spot back and forth and
just be really patient with it and move pretty slowly so you don’t get those
little circle divots in your wood I think this took me about an hour or an
hour and a half to strip the whole thing down and once you get it to a place
where you have all the varnish off you’re just going to wipe it down with a
tack cloth and kind of assess the situation if you have any areas that
look like they still have varnish go back over and hit those up and then the
next thing you’re going to do is go up in your sanding pad so you’re gonna look
for eight medium grit so I grabbed I think a 120 or 150 would work here just
put that on and I’m gonna do the exact same process go over the whole table
with the grain and this is just gonna smooth it out a little bit and prepare
it for the stain and then once I’m done sanding I’m just gonna grab that tech
cloth again and wipe away all that dust and debris and just make sure that we
have a really clean surface before I start staining the stain I’m gonna be
using today is general finishes water-based wood stain in graystone the
benefits of working with a water-based stain are that it’s easy cleanup it’s
not flammable the odor is definitely less than oil based stains and it’s
gonna dry faster so lots of benefits to using water-based this is only my second
or third time working with it you do have to stir it up a lot just so I
probably start it for a good 5 minutes because it’s really chunky in the can so
you just want to make sure that everything is smooth so I’m putting in
my stain in a separate container to work out of so I don’t contaminate my big can
I recommend doing this and really cleaning off that lid before you seal up
your stain I am gonna be using a foam brush to apply this these are really
affordable and general finish’s uses them a lot in their videos and it’s my
favorite thing to use you can also use a brush or a pad applicator theirs have
done bunch of different ways you can apply it but this is what I’m using
today and you want to paint this on pretty thick you don’t really want to be
able to see the wood grain you don’t want to spread it out thin it is a lot
thicker than I’ll be based stain so be aware of that so I’m just working in
small sections here and once I get this all the stain on to my liking I go back
with a lint-free absorbent cloth you don’t want to use t-shirts because
that’s just gonna push it around you definitely want to use like a shop towel
or something that’s meant for staining that’s gonna be absorbent I’ll link the
one that I am using below along with all these other products so check out that
description box down underneath the video ok so I know what you’re thinking
that’s looking really orange down there and that’s what I was thinking too but
it was because the stain was making the wood wet so as you can see as this video
is progressing here that orange is drying and going away and it is becoming
a beautiful walnut with like a smoky gray accent to it and this color gray
stone is just beautiful it is a newer color in the general finishes line they
did not have this around back in the day when I was doing my banister makeover
which if you haven’t seen that I’ll link that up above but this color is just
everything it’s the color that you see all over HomeGoods you see it in
Restoration Hardware and it’s all in one step I used to have to do two or three
different coats of different colors to get this exact perfect color and it’s
amazing that I can get this in one can in one coat now so as you can see my
technique is not changing from that one section I showed you you just do little
small sections paint it on really thick go with the grain and then you’re taking
that clean cloth and white being back any excess or any residue and
I had to change out rags a couple of times because as they get cooped up with
that stain you want to get a clean one and then after I was done staining the
whole thing I’m just taking one more pass with a clean rag just to make sure
I don’t have any of that excess stain on there I know this might sound weird but
I like an uneven and patchy finish I think it just makes it look more rustic
if you want a really even finish you just need to precondition this wood with
the general finishes pre-conditioner so this needs to dry for two hours before
you can topcoat it so we’re gonna jump over to the base of the table we’re just
taping off the felt to protect it as we paint I’m also cleaning it off with a
mild soap and wiping it down something that’s very important before you start
painting I’m gonna be using a Joe Lee paint today and it gesso white and this
is my first time at working with this color and I am super impressed with it
because it’s like a chameleon it has a warm and cool undertones so it’s very
neutral and it can kind of go either way whether your house is full of like cool
toned grays or maybe warm and beiges it really goes with either one so I’m
actually going to be using the Jolie signature brush today and small I love
love this brush it’s so comfortable in your hand if this is your first time
here Jolie is a furniture paint I typically use these furniture paints
chalk like paints chalk paint whatever you want to call a matte paint they all
have different names but essentially they do the same thing there is zero
well there’s minimum prep involved you don’t have to say in the piece you don’t
have to strip the existing finish back you just have to clean it off a little
bit like I did before and then you can go in and start doing the fun stuff
right away which is painting so for my first coat I am just painting right out
of the can because I don’t need to thin my paint out at all I like to put my
first coat on pretty thick and as you can see I’m going in every which
direction this is going to give your piece a hand-painted look it’s not going
to be super smooth but it’s not going to be super textured either and
will thin out my additional coats which we’ll talk about at a later point but
the point of this paint I think is to look hand-painted that’s the look that I
love when I’m working with it and especially with oak it’s really
difficult to get a smooth finish on oak because of that raised grain you’re
gonna see that grain no matter what you do so I like to get some brushstrokes in
there to kind of hide that grain two big things I want to point out to you guys
when you’re using this paint as you’re going really make sure you’re watching
out for those drip marks and cleaning them up as you go and second don’t go
back and rework a section that you’ve already covered like five minutes ago
because if you try to put new paint on top before that first coat is completely
dry it is gonna pull that other paint up and then you’re just gonna have to go
back and do additional coats so try your best to not go after and fix portions
that have already been dry for like five or ten minutes this paint dries extremely fast you’ll
be able to recode it in about 20 minutes it’ll look flat and feel kind of like
chalky when it’s dry so just test it out before you do that second coat in between coats I always seal up my
paint and I put my paintbrush in a ziploc bag or you can use one of these
this is a brush baggie it does the same thing and it’s gonna keep my paintbrush
from drying out in between coats to top coat this tabletop I’m gonna be using my
general finish’s high performance flat which is a water-based topcoat so it
really cleans up easily and it has a nice flat finish because I don’t like
shiny finishes you have used this a lot before and I really love it you do have
to give it quite a big stir because there will be big chunks in there so I
think I had to stir mine for about five minutes I’m putting it in a separate
container again to just keep the lint and stuff out of it and I’m applying it
with that foam brush just like I did with the stain I’m going back and forth
with the grain just the same way that I applied at the stain this top coat is
really forgiving so when you put it on it’s milky white and you will see
streaks and stuff but it levels out as it dries so don’t get concerned with
overworking it I really just put it on in little sections like this and then
move on to the next section you do need to overlap it just a little
bit so you don’t have lap marks don’t go back and rework a section that you have
already done because you are just going to pull the top coat off you’re just
gonna keep moving across the table in a slow steady motion one section of the
time stain does need to be completely dry before you apply this so make sure
you wait two plus hours once your stain has been on there to topcoat it if you
want any more information about this top coat and how to use it I definitely
recommend going to general finish’s website they have a lot of great info on
there about temperatures you need to work in and just other tips and tricks
and they also have a youtube channel as well which is where I learned how to use
all their products if you’re looking for some more details so here I’ve just slowed it down a bit
now that I’m a little bit closer to the camera just to show you how I’m putting
this on and don’t forget to do the edges of the table and underneath the lip a
little bit the dry time on this as well is about two hours so now we’re going to
jump back and do the second coat on the apron of the table so for my second coat
I like to put it in a container and thin it out with some water so I just spritz
it with my water bottle about you know 10 to 15 sprays and I also keep that
spray bottle handy to spray my paintbrush and just keep my paint a
little thinner than that first coat it’ll just smooth it out just a little
bit but still keep that hand brushed look to it technique is the same here I’m just
trying to coat that paint on painting in every direction and just covering up the
wood as much as I can like I said with white I tend to do three coats because I
just find that that’s the best amount of coverage for a light color like this but
as I’m painting along I just spray my brush a little bit and spray my paint
just to keep it a little bit thinner okay fast-forward two hours now we’re
ready to put another top coat on this table tops I’ve grabbed my sanding mask
and a 320 sanding pad which is a very fine sanding pad and I am using light
pressure just to kick up a little bit of dust and add a little bit of teeth as
they say for the second top coat to stick to in the past I have used steel
wool to do this and now I know better I have since learned that you are not
supposed to use steel wool with water-based finishes because it can rust
the little particles can rust so make sure you’re using a fine sanding pad
like this or like a really warnin sanding pad if you have something lower
like a 220 but as you can see as I’m standing very lightly it is just
creating like a very fine dust and that’s all you want to see you don’t
want to take it too far because you don’t want to scratch your surface and
you don’t want to take any of your stain up here’s the fine dust that it kicks up
after you’re done doing that grab your tack cloth and get all of that dust off
of there before you start adding your topcoat coat again that I had sealed up
just giving it a nice stir grabbing my brush out of my baggy that I used
earlier so that I don’t have to use a new one and I’m just applying this top
coat the exact same way that we plied it the first time go with the grain in
small sections and general finish’s recommends doing three coats of this so
we are going to finish this one up let it dry and then we’re going to hop back
over to the apron okay the third coat is just like the
second coat thin it out a little bit and just paint it on in every direction okay
I had to take this tabletop home to do the third coat because I couldn’t finish
it all in one day before I had to pick up my kids but this is exactly like the
second coat we’re just taking that 3:20 sanding pad lightly sanding with the
grain cleaning all the dust off and then adding that third coat of my
high-performance finish in flat well this is my final coat and just to remind
you dry time on this is two plus hours just so just make sure that your top
coat is completely dry before you add these additional coats I know that we’re finished with the top
I’m gonna hop back over to the base of the table and finish that off with Jolie
finishing wax and clear using one of their wax brushes and a lint-free cloth
to apply this wax is going to seal your paint so that it won’t chip or get
scratched up and all you do is get some wax on your brush and just push this in
to the paint rubbing it back and forth I like to tell you guys to think of it as
hand cream you’re gonna constantly rub that in and that porous paint is gonna
absorb that wax really well and a tip that I do is once I get the wax onto my
liking I kind of feel it with my hand and that way you can feel if there’s any
spots that are lacking wax or that have a little bit too much wax so once I’m in
a good spot there I’ll go back in with my lint-free cloth and just use some
light pressure to wipe it and get any of that excess wax off again I’ll take my
hand and kind of feel and if there’s any spots where my hand drags then I know I
have too much wax there and I just kind of rub it and buff it in just a little
bit white is the most forgiving color in my opinion when you’re working with wax
but it is kind of hard to see where you’re putting it on sometimes so that’s
why I use my hand a lot to figure out where I have the wax where I have too
much or where I’m lacking some but you don’t need a lot of wax a little bit
goes a long way I can finish multiple pieces with my can of wax and I’ve had
this one actually for quite a while it’s gonna seal and protect your piece and it
completely cures in 30 days on a side note I actually refinished the
inside of this game table but I’m gonna save that for a separate video cuz this
one was already getting really long but I’m gonna show you in my next video how
I actually use the stain right on top of this existing finish so if you want to
see that make sure you’re subscribed it’ll be coming up soon but for today we
are finished so I just wanted to remind you what we started out with here is our
little oak beauty table before and here she is after what a transformation
I am so happy with the way this top turned out from this orangie yellow oak
to this really pretty grey washed walnut color and I only took one step to do it
thanks to a general finishes new gray stone color my client is super happy
about this her mom cannot believe the transformation and that’s the most fun
part for me what do you guys think do you love it let me know in the comment
box do you think you could tackle this yourself I know it’s a lot of steps you
guys but I think anybody can achieve this finish I hope you try it out thanks for watching this video all the
way to the end I hope you enjoyed this next up with this piece we are gonna be
making over some stools so again make sure you’re subscribed so you don’t miss
that video thanks for being here and I’ll see you guys next time


  • David Jacques says:

    Keep up the great work

  • MrMouse says:

    You are AMAZING!

  • Rhonda Dorst says:

    I'm in love with it. Thank you.

  • My Quaint Cottage says:

    Great job 🤗

  • Cecilia Baca says:

    Love it! My coffee table is round and white but my end tables which I got at a garage sale for $ 10.00 are oak (orange) and don’t know if I should paint all white or go with this look! I love how it turned out it’s beautiful!

  • Pamela Buck says:

    Awesome Transition 😆😆😆 – we are so lucky to have all these wonderful products to give extended life to Enjoy and hopefully ‘heirlooms’; up to my children lol. I Always Love your informative videos. Your voice is soothing and you have a Wonderful way of expressing the techniques! Thanks for the tip regarding steel wool, perfect timing for me as this weekend I’m doing a redo for a piece that was my late mother’s; a lil nervous 😬
    Again, Thank You Pretty Lady 😍🤩🤗 Happy Thanksgiving 🦃 to You and your Family ❤️

  • Christina Muscari says:

    I love this look! Do you have a table you think you could try this technique on? All the products I used are in the description box with links to purchase them on Amazon. I appreciate your support!

  • Billiejoan McGonigle says:

    Awesome job im about to start table 3 leaves and 6 chairs!

  • Ahucan says:

    Hi. I have this piece of furniture that I’m going to chalkpaint. (Is there such a verb? 😂) I tihink its lamimate on plywood or mdf. Would you recommend sanding to loose the shiny finish before painting? If yes what coarse should I use with orbital sander? Thanks alot ❤️🙋🏻‍♀️

  • LuLu says:

    Love!!! Great job!

  • Julie-Anne says:

    HaHa! That's exactly what I was thinking, " wow its turning orange/ yellow"!

  • wilma heger says:

    Love it!!

  • Shelley Ortiz says:

    Great tutorial, thank you. I love the results.

  • Brian Morrison says:

    06:58 You can see where you overlapped the central section when you were doing the edges, as there is 'double strength' stain in this position. Surely you should have taped off the central area while doing the edge.

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